![]() ![]() They have everything, especially AR build parts and relevant knowledge to the build and customization process. Since mine was frozen, I trekked over to see the folks at the local gun store to buy a new one. If you want to take a shot at reusing yours, be sure to punch out the small retaining pin first in most cases that will release the tube from the gas block. I tried to re-use the existing gas tube, but either long-term use or aggressive factory installation ensured that the tube and gas block were permanently welded together. Or you could use an appropriate spanner wrench, but I didn’t have one. ![]() I had to, umm, blowtorch it a bit, then bash it loose with a hammer and screwdriver. How to Install or Change Your AR Handguard – Featuring the Brownells Wrenchman: This Rock River handguard was mounted with a counter-rotating locking ring. After removing those, the block slid right off the end of the muzzle device-less barrel. The old gas block had two screws securing it to the barrel. Since it was too big to fit inside the new Wrenchman handguard anyway, I replaced it with a new low-profile gas block, also from Brownells. It’s lower than the receiver rail, so a standard front sight won’t even line up properly when placed there. As you can see from the photos, it also included a short rail segment. This old Rock River rifle had a large and bulky gas block. Depending on how your manufacturer secured it, you might benefit from some gentle heating first. The old barrel nut and the new Wrenchman model won’t fit over flash hiders or muzzle brakes. You’ll need to take off the muzzle device. Step one of changing your AR-15 handguard is simple and requires no special tools assuming you’ve got a wrench lying about. You’ll need to remove the existing gas block to get the old barrel nut off and the new one on. Be sure to UNLOAD first and then separate your upper and lower receivers. Removing the Existing Handguardīefore you start, it’s easiest to do this little project when working with the upper receiver only. Fortunately, I have a multi-purpose AR Armorer’s wrench from Brownellsthat I use for many maintenance chores like installing and removing muzzle devices. Removing the old handguard was a different story. I used a 30-year-old relic that’s done everything from fixing lawnmowers to serving with distinction as a hammer. To install the Brownells Wrenchman, you will need to acquire some specialized tools.Ī Crescent Wrench. How to Install or Change Your AR Handguard: Tools Required ![]() Note the flats in the center of the barrel nut. The Wrenchman only requires a standard crescent wrench when installing or changing your AR handguard. They’re available in 12.625 and 15-inch lengths and run about 20 bucks more than the standard models. The Precision Wrenchman models have a longer locking nut for improved mount stability and three attachment screws. The standard Wrenchman uses a shorter (front to back) barrel nut and two locking screws. All feature M-LOK attachment points out the wazoo in seven angles around the barrel and a full-length Picatinny rail up top. There are two basic styles of the handguard, and both are available multiple lengths. The company bragged that the system is simple to install and requires no special tools, so I tried it out. Then things got simple when I heard about the Brownells Wrenchman. It’s not a hard job, but I never got motivated enough to search the three billion handguards on the market to figure out which one I should buy. I’ve been thinking this old AR needs a functional facelift for quite some time, but I hadn’t worked up the gumption to deal with shopping for, and figuring out how to install, a new one. On the plus side, it was a free-floated system, and because of that, it is shockingly accurate when using quality ammo or my special Sierra Matchking reloads. My relaxed support hand, including the thumb, is about five inches wide, so we’re not talking about a lot of extra grip real estate. The one shown in the before pictures here measures just under seven inches. Oh, and old-school handguards were short too. That helped a lot but made the handguard even larger. To cure that ailment, I put Ergo rail covers on all surfaces not being used. That’s handy for mounting gear, but rails don’t make the best grip surface. This one, like many others of the time, also had rails on all four sides. Handguards were often short and bulky, with a circumference akin to that of a 55-gallon drum. Back then, the cool styles du jour differed from today. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |